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Peak Mountain 3

Waltzing in the Wonderland

FA Vern Stiefel & Randy Vogel, 1992
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

The crux of this climb is in the first 10' so unless you are comfortable soloing 5.11 with potential to fall into a deep chasm, stick clip the first bolt. Technical underclinging and footwork gains a large edge. From here waltz up the dihedral with lieback and backstep moves (10+). A #0 TCU protects moves to the 2nd bolt.

Location

This deceptively difficult route ascends the shallow and low angle dihedral just right of Time Out. Approach via the V0 boulder problem to the large ledge. Rappel anchors are at the top.

Protection

Two bolts and #0 - #3 TCU's or equivalent. Rap anchors at the top.


Routes in The Dunce Cap


  1. 3
    Waltzing in the Wonderland
    5.11
    Trad
1000 km
1000 mi