This powerful climb ascends a very thin roof crack.  Thankfully there are some jugs.  Begin from a right side of a big, long ledge.  Climb up a short corner to the roof.  Move right out of the corner & onto the face.  A thin crack crux, protected by Aliens, leads out the ceiling to reach a jug.  Place stoppers & power out the ceiling on good holds to gain a ledge & the bolt anchor.

Crack House

Hampster Monkey

Hummingbird Rodeo

Strange Brew

Sketchy Parenting

Kung Fu Monkey

Easy Dude?

Hamster Kung Fu

The Chihuahua

Big Lebowsky

Moonshine

This is the bolted line just to the right of the obvious crack system on the right side of this crag.

To start, you can scramble up a ledge system from the right or do a short climb up from the left.  A yellow Alien placed from the ground seemed to help make the start feel less scary as the crux move seemed to be before clipping the 1st bolt.  Alternatively, a stick clip may obviate the need for a cam.  Move up on bulgy terrain with less-than-bucket holds.  Once you get the obvious horizontal-ish crack, things will feel more solid, but there is still another mantel or reach move to get your weight off your hands.  Continue up a slab, move onto the near-vertical headwall slightly right of the last bolt and anchors.

Oh yeah, another interesting thing about this route is that you can get buzzed by hummingbirds while climbing it...especially if you have something strongly red on.  Hummingbirds came by probably a dozen times while climbing this route.  Maybe it was the red helmet?

This is a short but good quality route that lies just to the right of an obvious chimney and the route

Moonshine

.

The start had good hand holds but slippery feet.  The crux seemed to be getting your feet high and lockoff for the 2nd hold.

Mark Rolofson feels the crux is at the 3rd bolt.

Move upward on some good jugs.  You can stay slightly left of the bolts and find small but good edges...or...you can traverse right at the 3rd bolt and go for a slap for a sloper (harder, probably 11+ per Mark Rolofson). Either way, continue up easier moves to the 2 bolt anchor.

Ascend a short, left-facing corner to a small roof.  Pass the roof and finish up on the slabby face above.

This route appeared long abandoned, so I figured climbing on it wouldn't step on any toes.

Climb through a compression boulder problem past the first two clips getting to a good flake out left. Then follow thrutchy but easier climbing past two more bolts to the anchors.

This is a link up that climbs the bouldery start of "

Hamster Ku Fung

" to the 3rd bolt & crux finish of "

Hamster Monkey

".  This makes for the best direct line up this short, powerful, overhung face.

This is a natural line on the right side of Little Dude that has a spicy section in its middle.  The route can probably be done in three different ways.

Start off a ledge system perhaps 20 feet off the ground.  There is a scramble going up from the right or a climbing approach from the left.

Climb into a hands to fist crack that is somewhat reminiscent of Lumpy climbing.  Where the crack peters out, you have some choices.  The easiest is to move right, clipping the last bolt of

Hummingbird Rodeo

and its anchor and then continuing up and left to the anchors for Easy Dude.  Alternatively, you can move slightly left into a delicate and balancy bit of climbing above a slab with pro below your feet.  Keep moving up to eventually find good holds and finally a gear placement maybe 12-14 feet above the ledge (9 PG-13 to R).  Finally, you can do a delicate traverse to the left on sloping holds until you get to a spot to move upwards.  Once through the 12-14 feet above the ledge, the climbing difficulty eases dramatically.

Preclipping the 2nd bolt is advised. A bouldery crux start leads up the overhung face to a good jug.  Reach right to 3rd bolt. The second crux traverses right on small edges to easy terrain. Wander up & left to the anchor shared with "

Hamster Monkey

". Climbing more directly up to last bolt adds to the difficulty.

This is the shortest climb in the area, ascending a steep slab face.  Stick clip the 1st bolt.  Technical moves with small footholds lead past the 2nd bolt.  Finish on good holds.

This climb ascends a two-tiered overhang via small holds. Climb 10 feet up a ramp corner & hand traverse left on a shelf, past the 1st bolt. Gain a good ledge & the 2nd bolt.  Traverse right a couple moves under an overhang to a jug & clip 3rd bolt.  Powerful moves on small edges lead to bigger edges over the lip.  Traverse left, past 4th bolt, to a finger lock in a horizontal seam. The second crux steps over the first roof & reaches holds above the second roof.  Move back right to last bolt.  Tiny edges lead over the roof up the slab to the anchor.

I bolted this route in Spring 2004.  Over the years, I have worked on this route, done all the moves, but never come close to redpointing it.  I belayed Colby Rickard who redpointed this powerful route on his 6th attempt (2nd try on day 3).

This is an interesting line with chimney moves to start and a funky crux at mid-height.  It is currently the 2nd bolted route from the left on the southwest face of this crag.

There are a lot of rodent droppings in this chimney.

To start, you may see chalked holds to the left of the chimney.  That seems to be hard for 5.9.  Instead, get into the chimney and use various face holds and stems.  Shorter climbers will feel more challenged here.  Once you get up a few feet, you will find some nice jugs on the right wall.  After clipping the 4th bolt, you will traverse rightward a few feet.  Then move up and slightly leftward into the brief crux.  The difficulty eases from here.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Little Dude