Funny how things work out. We did Any Head Is Good Head the day a Playboy Feature Girl was on the hill. How we ended up over here instead of chasing her around just goes to show how climbing fouls our reason.

Start behind the trees on greyish rock and work your way ever onward via sharp crimps and largely continuous 5.10 climbing. Near the top, angle a bit left to pull over the cap (5.11b) or dodge left 15 feet to bail out earlier for a 5.10 finish.

The climbing is quite good, probably worth two stars at least; however, the anchor is placed well above the break in angle of the cap and can cause significant rope drag. This is not a line to top rope. Bring up the second and then rap.

Any Head Is Good Head

Sloppy Head

Meth Head

Classic Head

Crack Head

Head for Backstage Pass

Block Head

This has a tricky start, one can chimney with the dead tree to get started. From there, blocky jugs will lead to two mini-cruxes which require some high-stepping. Then an easy 10-15 foot runout will lead to some excellent edging on a steep slab. The guide says it's a 75 foot climb, but people with a 50m beware.

Climb the scrappy, left-facing dihedral left of the bolted line

Classic Head

. Belay at a ledge with a small tree. The rock is fairly friable near the top with poor gear—at least the climbing is easier.

To descend, circumnavigate clockwise to bolted anchor to rappel off (Looking For Me Nuts' anchors).

Begin up a slab to a small roof. Fire the roof – the first crux – to an enjoyable layback. Then sustained climbing leads to a second crux before easier terrain to the anchor.

Climb the thin crack between

Head for Backstage Pass

and

Meth Head

. Begin up a slab to a crack (poorly proceed for the first 12 feet). Then fire up the thought-provoking crack to easier terrain. Either use

Meth Head's

anchors (recommended) or continue up and right, staying in the crack to the top. An easy anchor off a tree allows for a walk-off on the backside of the formation. The crack is mossy and a bit dirt-filled but overall, decent.

Good stemming moves lead to a ledge. Upon gaining access to the ledge, there is a nice 15-20 foot runout to the next bolt. Bring your 'nads or some gear to protect the run. Afterwards, outstanding face climbing on fun edges occurs. You may stop at the first set or continue on to the top of Head Wall. If you continue on, bring more draws and tie a knot in your rope.

The book says its 100 feet to the top, but my 60m was at its ends at the first set.

Begin up a slab with a thin crack to a roof. Pull the roof, the crux, and continue on surprisingly thoughtful face climbing. Easier terrain after a second bulge leads to a finish on a gold-colored rock prow.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Head Wall